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The tart little Cranberry, from most accounts, has risen from the very humblest of origins—a swamp no less—to occupy a place of honor and traditionalism on almost every holiday table in America. Cranberries are now just about as American as apple pie, especially at Thanksgiving. Although there is little evidence that cranberry sauce was served at the first Thanksgiving, it has always been assumed that the Indians brought it to the famous harvest feast of 1621. Early records do show that the Indians first introduced this little crimson berry to the Pilgrims in 1620 and that it has had a place on the American table ever since.
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The “First Thanksgiving” or the Harvest Celebration Feast.
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Cranberries, as documented by the Pilgrims, were found growing abundantly in the wild around Massachusetts. They were first used by Native Americans, who discovered the wild berry's versatility. In fact, long before the Pilgrims arrived in 1620, Native Americans used cranberries in a variety of foods, the most popular was pemmican - a high protein combination of crushed cranberries, dried deer meat and melted fat—a high energy convenience food that kept for long periods. Other accounts mention the Indians cooking cranberries with maple sugar or honey, using the fruit as a source of dye, and even as a medicine - by pounding the berries into a pulp that was spread on wounds to "draw the poison out." It is also reported that The Delaware Indians in New Jersey were reported to have used the cranberry as a symbol of peace.
Cranberries at sea…History also documents that the American cranberry played a significant role in American History at sea. In the early Colonial days, Ships carried barrels of cranberries on long voyages as a scurvy preventative for the crews. Also, in the days of the great sailing ships, American cranberries were exported to Europe by simply packing them in barrels and covering them with water whereby they would remain in good shape throughout the long sea voyage.
The Cranberries have had a variety of different names since their discovery. Eastern Indians called them “sassamanesh”. The Cape Cod Pequot’s and the South Jersey Leni- Lenape’s tribes named them “iabimi”, or bitter berry. The Algonquin’s of Wisconsin called the fruit “atoqua”. There is some uncertainty as to the exact derivation of the name “cranberry”. The most common theory comes from the English “Crane berry”, which is believed to have resulted from the fact that the stamens of the plant resemble the head and neck of the Sandhill Crane.
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Other theories include the German “Kraanbere” or the Dutch, “kranebere”, both of which share the association of cranes being attracted to the cranberry bog; even though they don’ t appear to actually eat the cranberries.
The American Cranberry, along with the blueberry and Concord grape, is one of North America’s three native fruits that are commercially grown. The cranberry, scientifically know as “Vaccinium macrocarpon, is native to the swamps and bogs of northeastern North America”, and is also the state berry of Massachusetts. It belongs to the Heath, or Heather family (Ericaceae), which is a very widespread family of about 125 genera and about 3500 species.
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The American Cranberry in full Bloom……
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The cranberry plant is described as a low-growing, woody perennial with small, oval leaves borne on fine, vine-like shoots. Horizontal stems, or runners, grow along the soil surface, rooting at intervals to form a dense mat. Its flower buds, formed on short, upright shoots, open from May to June and produce ripe fruit in late September to early October. Blossoms first appear during the 1st to 2nd week of June, and berries are usually not fully ripe until the first week of October, which is when most growers begin to harvest their bogs.
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There are more than 100 varieties of cranberries that grow in North America. On Cape Cod, two varieties are harvested commercially, the “Early Black” which is dark purple in color and harvested in September, and the “Later Howes” that is larger, lighter in color and matures in October. In addition to Massachusetts, the major growing areas for cranberries are New Jersey, Oregon, Washington, Wisconsin, and in the Canadian provinces of British Columbia and Quebec. Additional regions with cranberry production include Delaware, Maine, Michigan, New York, Rhode Island, as well as the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Ontario and Prince Edward Island. Altogether the entire cranberry industry is supported by approximately 47,000 acres, of which 14,000 are in Massachusetts. Normally, growers do not have to replant since an undamaged cranberry vine will survive indefinitely. Some vines in Massachusetts are more than 150 years old
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16 Month Cranberry Growing Cycle
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Native Distribution Map of the Cranberry in North America.
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Cranberries are a unique fruit. The cranberry is a Native American wetland fruit which grows on trailing vines like a strawberry. They tend to grow naturally in what would otherwise be wastelands. Contrary to popular belief, cranberries do not grow in water. Instead, they grow on vines in impermeable beds layered with sand, peat, gravel and clay. Many of these natural beds, commonly known as "bogs," were originally made by glacial deposits more than 10,000 years ago. These tiny little crimson berries can only grow and survive under a very special combination of factors. The magic combination of factors include…an acid/ peat soil, a sandy bog, an adequate supply of fresh water and a growing season that stretches from April to November; including a dormancy period in the winter months that provides an extended chilling period which is necessary to mature the fruiting buds.
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Anatomy of a Cranberry Bog
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Documentation indicates that the cranberry was grown and first harvested in Dennis, Massachusetts (on Cape Cod), in 1816 – this the first recorded yield in cranberry history. The commercial cultivation of cranberries was begun in the early 1800s in Dennis, Massachusetts, by Henry Hall, a veteran of the Revolutionary War. It was Mr. Hall who first observed that after the prevailing winds and tides swept some sand into his bogs, that an abundant amount of larger fruits were produced. Over the years it has also been determined that a moderate amount of sand in the bogs helps to stifle the growth of weeds without interfering with the cranberry plants, in part because the cranberry vines have deeper roots.
Water, the life blood of cranberries….. Water is used throughout the year for irrigation and to protect vines from weather damage in winter and frost in spring and fall. As fall approaches, water becomes essential to the wet harvesting process. In winter, bogs are covered with water that freezes and provides insulation from frost. The frozen bogs are sometimes used by skaters for winter fun and recreation.
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Winter Fun on a Frozen Bog…Cape Cod, MA
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As the winter snow melts and spring arrives, the bogs are drained and cranberry vines are awakened by gentle rains and warmer days. Soon after spring, light pink blossoms which resemble the head and neck of the Sandhill Crane begin to appear. As flowers bloom, honeybees and bumblebees work diligently to pollinate flowers, ensuring a good crop. In mid-July, petals fall from the flowers leaving tiny green nodes which after weeks of summer sun, become red, ripe cranberries.
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Cranberries are also known as the "bouncing berry”. This is because the fresher the berry the better the bounce. According to local legend, the quality “or bounce factor” of the cranberry was accidentally discovered by Cape Cod legend John “Pegleg” Webb. After an accident which caused a large number of cranberries to be dropped on the floor John “Pegleg” noticed that some of the berries bounced off of the hardwood floors while others didn't. When he realized that the ones that hadn't bounced were inferior or spoiled, the bounce test was born. In the old days, they were tipped down a small set of steps; the bad ones remained on the steps because they did not bounce. Modern cranberry separators use the same principle with each berry having seven chances to bounce over a four-inch barrier. The highest quality berries end up as fresh fruit and the lower quality berries are sold for juice or sauces.
There are two methods of harvesting the cranberry—wet and dry. In dry harvesting, a mechanical picker with metal teeth combs the berries off their stubby vines. Berries picked by this method supply the fresh market, which accounts for about 15% of the crop. In wet harvesting, the bogs are flooded with water, and then worked over by giant "eggbeaters." The berries float to the surface and are corralled onto conveyors to waiting trucks which take them to receiving station and eventually processing plants.
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Beating the Cranberries from the vines with the Water Reel, nicknamed the “Egg Beater”
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Corralling the Cranberries
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Corralling Cranberries up the vacuum onto the conveyor belt
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Berries coming off the conveyor belt into trucks.
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With more than 500 Massachusetts growers producing 38 percent of the nation's cranberry supply, this little red berry has become the number one food crop in Massachusetts. The cranberry industry provides more than 5,500 jobs and more than $200 million to the Massachusetts economy. Massachusetts cranberry growers have much to celebrate at harvest time - the serene setting of cranberries being harvested; the beauty of the surrounding fall foliage; and the fruits of their long laboring year. But most importantly the pride and knowledge that they are continuing a tradition that is an important part of the Massachusetts and American Heritage.
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Beautiful Massachusetts Fall Foliage Reflecting against a Cranberry Bog.
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Major Events in the History of Cranberry Production
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1550 Native Americans use cranberries for food, dyes and medicine 1620 Pilgrims learn to use cranberries from the Native Americans 1683 Cranberry juice made by settlers 1816 Captain Henry Hall first cultivated cranberries in Dennis, Massachusetts 1820's Cranberries shipped to Europe for sale 1838 First record of ice sanding on bogs and flooding first used to control insects and prevent frost damage 1843 Eli Howes cultivated Howes variety of cranberries in East Dennis, Massachusetts 1845 "An Act for the Protection of Cranberries on Gay Head" put forth by Gay Head Indians on Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts 1847 Cyrus Cahoon cultivated Early Black variety of cranberries in Harwich, Massachusetts 1850's First cranberry scoops used for harvest and water harvesting tried, but abandoned; sailors use cranberries to prevent scurvy at sea 1854 First census of cranberry acreage - 197 acres in Barnstable County, MA. 1856 The Cranberry and Its Culture published by Benjamin Eastwood 1863 U. S. Department of Agriculture created Massachusetts Agricultural College (University of Massachusetts); Abraham Lincoln proclaims first national Thanksgiving 1868 100 lb. barrel of cranberries sold for fifty-eight cents in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 1870's Six quart pail used as standard picking measure 1887 Snap scoop invented for younger vines by Daniel Lumbert 1888 Cape Cod Cranberry Growers' Association formed in Massachusetts 1906 Henry J. Franklin began formal agricultural research on cranberries 1907 First market cooperative founded, New England Cranberry Sales Company 1910 Cranberry Experiment Station research facility established in Wareham, Massachusetts; Dr. Henry J. Franklin named first director; more efficient rocker scoop used 1912 Hayden cranberry separator patented. First cranberry sauce marketed, Hanson, Massachusetts 1920 Oscar Tervo invented first mechanical ride-on dry harvester known as Mathewson. Telephone frost warning system started 1923 Bailey Separator patented to grade and separate cranberries by bouncing the berries 1930 Ocean Spray Cranberries, Inc. formed as a grower owned marketing cooperative 1947 Walk behind mechanical dry harvesters replaced hand scooping 1953 First million barrel national crop 1959 Cranberry scare causes industry market crash 1960's First successful water harvesting; sprinkler systems installed on most bogs; cranberry products diversify and market expands 1970's Integrated Pest Management programs developed 1980's International markets developed for cranberries; demand for cranberry juice and juice blends rise dramatically 1990's Diversified cranberry products become ingredients in other foods; global demand for cranberry products continues to grow; new plantings of cranberries increase in an attempt to meet growing demand; cranberry prices reach an historic high 1997 An over supply of cranberries, plus other economic and business hurdles, cause a dramatic drop in cranberry prices, causing an economic uncertainty and a destabilizing of the cranberry industry 2000's With cranberry supply better matching demand, cranberry prices begin to stabilize and the industry begins to return to profitability
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Resource List for Further Study
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- Burrows, Fredrika A. CANNONBALLS AND CRANBERRIES. William S. Sultwold, Taunton, 1974.
- Eck, Paul. THE AMERICAN CRANBERRY. Rutgers University Press, New Jersey, 1990.
- Jasperson, William. CRANBERRIES. Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1991.
- Johnson, Charles W. BOGS OF THE NORTHEAST. University Press of New England, 1985.
- Kusler, Jon A. OUR NATIONAL WETLAND HERITAGE. A PROTECTION GUIDEBOOK. The Environmental Law
Institute, Washington, D. C, 1983.
- Lyons, Janet. WALKING THE WETLANDS. John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1989.
- Milne, Louis J. THE MYSTERY OF THE BOG FOREST. Dodd, Mead, & Company, New York, 1984.
- Newcomb, Lawrence. NEWCOMB'S WILDFLOWER GUIDE. Little, Brown, & Company, Boston, 1977.
- Niering, William A. WETLANDS: THE AUDUBON SOCIETY NATURE GUIDES. Alfred A. Knopf, New York.
- Peterson, Roger Tory. WILDFLOWERS: PETERSON FIELD GUIDES. Houghton Mifflin Company,Boston,
- Thomas, Joseph. CRANBERRY HARVEST. Spinner Publications, New Bedford,
- Weller, Milton. FRESHWATER MARSHES: ECOLOGY AND WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT. University of Minnesota,
Minneapolis, 1981.
- Wilson, Ron. THE MARSHLAND WORLD. Blandford Press, Dorset, 1982.
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A view of a flooded cranberry bog
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